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ERV/HRV installation brings in fresh outdoor air while exhausting stale indoor air without sacrificing efficiency.
Brutally honest: Most Chicago homes are leaky enough they don't need ERV/HRV. We install them when you've air-sealed so tight that fresh air becomes a problem. Since 1992.
Think of it as trading stale inside air for fresh outside air, but recovering the temperature and humidity so you don't waste energy.
Transfers heat between outgoing stale air and incoming fresh air using a heat exchanger core.
Cost installed
Everything HRV does PLUS transfers moisture between air streams.
Cost installed
Better for ChicagoChicago has humid summers and dry winters. ERV addresses both. HRV is cheaper but only solves half the problem.
Better for Chicago climate because it transfers heat + moisture.
Only transfers heat (not moisture). Better for cold, dry climates.
Brutally honest: Most Chicago homes are leaky enough they don't need ERV/HRV. We install them when you've air-sealed so tight that fresh air is a problem. If you're not sure, we can test your home's air-tightness (blower door test) before recommending ERV/HRV.
Installation takes 1-2 days and requires careful planning to balance airflow and meet code requirements.
ERV/HRV maintenance is easy—mostly changing filters. If you don't do it, efficiency drops 30-50%.
Don't buy an ERV for a promised dollar return. Buy it for controlled fresh air in a tight home; actual operating costs depend on the home, climate, and equipment settings.
Primary Benefit:
Fresh air continuously, NOT energy savings
Contact us for a written estimate based on your system and the work required.
HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator) transfers heat between outgoing stale air and incoming fresh air, recovering 60-80% of heating/cooling energy. ERV (Energy Recovery Ventilator) does everything HRV does PLUS transfers moisture. For Chicago's humid summers and dry winters, ERV is better—it removes humidity from incoming air in summer and retains some moisture in winter.
Operating cost is ongoing monthly cost in electricity plus ongoing annual cost for filter replacements.
You probably need ERV/HRV if: your home is tightly sealed (spray foam, new construction, deep energy retrofit), indoor air feels stuffy, odors linger for hours, you have high radon levels, or building code requires it (passive house standards). You probably DON'T need it if: you have an older leaky home (pre-1980 Chicago bungalow has plenty of air leaks already), you can just open windows for fresh air, or you're just looking for better air quality.
Replace ERV/HRV filters every 3-6 months. Clean the heat exchanger core every 1-2 years by removing it, rinsing with water, and reinstalling—this is a DIY job. If you skip filter changes, efficiency drops 30-50%.
Don't buy an ERV for a promised dollar return. Buy it for continuous fresh air in a tight home. Energy recovery can reduce the heating and cooling load compared with ventilation without recovery, but actual operating cost and payback depend on the home and equipment settings.
ERV/HRV installation requires: two exterior vent penetrations (intake and exhaust, must be 10+ feet apart per code), ductwork connections, dedicated 120V electrical circuit, condensate drain or pump, and balanced airflow testing. Most homeowners hire a professional.
We'll give you an honest assessment. If your home doesn't need it, we'll tell you. If you need it, we'll explain exactly why and size it correctly.
Most assessments take 30-45 minutes. We can test your home's air-tightness to determine if ERV/HRV makes sense.